The rows of rice in supermarkets can be intimidating. Where once bags and boxes of white, long grain rice - some of it parboiled and ready to go - dominated the shelves, today's shopper is thrust into a global rice paddy of choices. Red rice from Bhutan; purple rice from Thailand; black rice from China and Japan; brown rice from California; and variations on white rice from around the world stand side by side, a rainbow of grains. Long grain, short grain, and medium grain rice triple the options - not to mention the blends. Throw in wild rice (actually an aquatic grass, and rarely true "wild" rice, but rather a cultivated version of the rare grass), and consumer confusion can ensue.

Rice is highly regarded in nearly every culture of the world, to the tune of over 450 million tons consumed every year, according to the International Rice Research Institute. In the United States, consumers devour over 4 tons of the easily digested, nutritious grain each year, a number that has grown steadily over the decades.

White rice, milled to remove the brown hull - and the nourishing bran and germ - has become the norm even in countries where daily sustenance depends upon meals made up largely of rice. The loss of the vital nutrients through milling, however, means that millions of people around the world remain malnourished.

The practice of milling and polishing rice started as early as the 1500s, and was originally a sign of wealth. As mechanical methods of milling improved, white rice became accessible to all social groups. Less expensive, lighter to ship long distances, and a longer shelf life added to the popularity of white rice.

In the past century, consumers have once more recognized the value in eating whole grain rice. Brown rice has made a comeback, and is now as easily available in advanced countries as is white rice. Not only that, brown rice has been joined by the multitude of other whole grain rice varieties that give shoppers intriguing options.

Among the many whole grain rices, red rice, brown rice, purple, and black rice share many healthy attributes. All rice is high in carbohydrates and fiber, but whole grain rice is generally higher in protein, calcium, iron, and other vitamins and minerals than white rice. Brown and red rice are rich in B vitamins, in particular. Black rice, or "forbidden rice," as it is called in China, is also very high in flavinoid antioxidants. Rice, however, requires the addition of nuts, seeds, or beans to become a complete protein.

Less common varieties of rice beg for experimentation, and it is only through culinary experimentation that new tastes are discovered. Once a bag or box of red or black rice is plucked from the shelf, all that is left is cooking and serving it in a manner that emphasizes its best qualities.

Perfecting the art of cooking rice is a challenge. Long grain rice, whether white or whole grain, tends to cook up into fluffier, drier rice than its starchier, short grain relatives. Short-grained rices are ideal for desserts. The high starch content results in a very tender and creamy cooked rice that is desirable in puddings, cakes, and porridges.

Regardless of which rice is selected, the results can depend on accurate measuring of liquid to rice, temperature control, and the method.

What is known as the absorption method is the most common method of making rice, with rice and liquid brought to a boil (adding salt is an option that may cause grains to burst while cooking), then reduced to a simmer, covered tightly and cooked until pockets form on the surface. Removing the rice from the heat and leaving it uncovered and untouched for 10 to 15 minutes allows steam to finish cooking the rice to perfection. Gently fluff with two metal forks or spoons just before serving.

Most experts recommend rinsing rice in cold water before cooking. Soaking rice, for at least 20 minutes, can be beneficial for whole grain rice varieties. The amount of liquid to rice is a matter of experimentation. Usually, long grain white rice needs 1½ to 1¾ cups of liquid for each cup of rice; long grain brown and other whole grain rice requires 2 to 2¼ cups of liquid for each cup of dry rice. Short grain rices need less liquid. A heavy bottomed pan is necessary to prevent rice from sticking and burning to the bottom of the pan.

The boiling method, of adding rice to greater volumes of boiling liquid, and draining after testing finds the rice fully cooked, is preferred by some for brown rice. Many nutrients go down the drain with that approach, however.

Of course, there is the option of using an electric rice cooker, which with a little practice is a convenient and sure-fire method of making rice. Simple cookers will have a white rice and brown rice option (which can be used for all whole grain varieties, with some adjustments for liquid to rice ratio), to complex cookers that provide detailed options for cooking every type of rice.

Rice does not love to be reheated. Placing it in a steamer and gently rewarming it over boiling water does revive it somewhat. Leftover rice, however, loves to be added to soups or stews, or turned into morning porridge, so do not worry about cooking too much. It can be frozen, as well, if it's ultimate destination is soup.

The beauty of the richly colored red, black, and brown rices means that they shine as simply prepared side dishes, garnished only with herbs and scallions, or in rice salads, where contrasting colors can make an eye-catching addition to a meal.

White rice continues to be popular, however, as its subtle flavor makes it an ideal vehicle to complement highly seasoned stews, sauces, meats, and seafood. The nutty, fruity flavors of red, black, and purple rice are lost in these instances. When properly cooked, a bowl heaped with fragrant white jasmine or basmati rice is a temptation difficult to deny. And who can argue with a plate of risotto, the delicacy made from white Arborio rice?

It may take poet Robert Frost's word completely out of context, and I do beg his postmortem pardon, but I have been known to mutter, as I go about preparing dinner, "Some say that dinner will end in fire, some say rice… Rice is also great, and would suffice."

Add a new rice to your foodie repertoire. It will more than suffice.

 

Red Rice and Tofu Salad

2 C cooked red rice, cooled (about 1 C dry)

1 lb firm tofu, cut in half, pressed to remove excess water; cut into ½-inch chunks

2 Tbs minced scallions

2 Tbs coarsely chopped cilantro

½ C chopped roasted almonds

1 clove garlic, crushed

2 tsp fresh grated ginger

¼ tsp crushed red pepper

1 Tbs toasted sesame oil

2 Tbs canola oil

1 Tbs rice vinegar

2 tsp tamari soy sauce

Heat one tablespoon of canola oil in a heavy sauté pan. Add tofu and sauté until browned on all sides. Remove from pan.

Whisk ginger, garlic, pepper, remaining canola oil, sesame oil, vinegar and tamari together.

Place tofu in a bowl and pour dressing over. Let stand for one hour.

Mix cooled rice, scallions, cilantro and almonds together, and then add tofu and dressing.

Adjust vinegar and tamari seasoning to taste.

Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and more scallions if desired.

Serve room temperature or chilled.