Sushi And Hibachi At Toro Fills A Niche In Newtown

The New England Colonial building that houses Toro Japanese & Chinese Cuisine on Church Hill Road is a decided contrast to the elegant Asian décor inside, where owners Becky Chou and Benny Wei and staff warmly greet customers. Neutral tones of soft green and mushroom tan color most walls, accented by the Asian traditionally lucky color of red in translucent fabric lampshades and floor runners. Natural light from full-length windows is subdued by drapes gently twisted to one side.

Acoustic ceiling tiles hush what could be a large, noisy room, and wall tiles cleverly disguised as works of art hang strategically about the room, the geometric pattern of the fabric echoing the rest of the décor. A half wall topped with three modern fish sculptures (symbols of prosperity and abundance) separates two sets of booths centrally located in the main dining room. 

Couples looking for a quiet night out, business people in a hurry, or families gathered for special events can all find just the right atmosphere at Toro.

Ms Chou’s and Mr Wei’s ten years of experience as owners of Mannen Restaurant in Ridgefield has flowed over into their new venture. Toro, featuring Japanese and Chinese cuisine, opened in 2008 and has met with success not only in the Newtown community, but statewide as well. “We were voted Best Asian Fried Calamari in 2009, and Best Sushi for 2011, by Connecticut Magazine readers,” said Ms Chou, as well as earning statewide runner up and Fairfield County Best Asian in 2011.

A small bar area just inside the entrance doubles as a waiting area in colder weather, with half a dozen upholstered stools lined up at the granite bar. From there, it is just steps to the sushi bar and the main dining room.

Regular customers know that they can pull up a chair at the sushi bar and ask head sushi chef Kenny Li, or any of the other three New York trained sushi chefs, to create a custom sushi dish (thinly sliced raw fish and/or vegetables with specially seasoned rice, with nori seaweed). They know that Chef Li’s creativity and skill will come up with a beautiful and delicious presentation. A short wait while preparation is underway is almost a Zen experience at the sushi bar. An entire wall of river stone, with water tumbling gently down the surface in a continuous circuit, provides a calming background for the busy chefs.

 For those who are new to the sushi experience, an extensive selection of sushi and sashimi (raw fish) combinations fill two pages of the menu. Unique to Toro are many of the sushi appetizers and main course dishes, such as the citrus salmon carpaccio, in which thin slices of raw salmon are wrapped around a crab salad filling, then lightly torched, and served with a citrus sauce. Customers also delight in the white tuna new-style sashimi, said Ms Chou, a presentation of seared white tuna topped with truffle oil and a fruity “Yuzu” sauce.

Whether dining at the sushi bar, or at one of a dozen tables or booth options in the main dining room, sushi and sashimi are only the beginning of mealtime options offered at Toro.

Chef Zheng and staff in the kitchen bring in fresh, seasonal items to turn out the numerous Chinese, Thai, and Japanese menu items with an innovative touch, said Ms Chou. “In May, we had fresh pea shoots in many specials, for instance,” she said, “and earlier this spring we were able to feature soft shell crab. People who like inventive cuisine know to ask us what is available.” The kitchen staff is happy to work with customers to come up with a meal tweaked to suit the individual.

“Newtown is a real community town,” Ms Chou said. “Our customers are like family, so they feel comfortable making special requests.”

Diners will find eight different soups and more than 20 appetizers on the menu to start off the meal — including the Asian fried calamari, ultrathin rounds of calamari seasoned with jalapeño in a crispy coating, deep-fried, and served with a spicy mayonnaise. Thin and flaky Malaysian pancakes served with a zesty curried dipping sauce is yet another popular appetizer.

Soups, appetizers, and salads are followed on the menu by dozens of chicken, pork, beef, seafood, and vegetable entrees, as well as noodle and chow mein choices, and another 18 house specials. Best sellers include the crispy sesame chicken, or the mango chicken stir-fry, a combination of sliced chicken breast with fresh mango, asparagus, and snow peas.

Toro customers also go for the spicy beef with scallions, or the crispy shrimp with walnuts, said Ms Chou, all served with rice. Dinner entrees start at $8.95 for vegetable or noodle selections, to $20.95 for the generously sized surf and turf combination of General Tso’s shrimp, filet mignon, and mixed vegetables.

The lunch menu is equally extensive as that for evening, with several sushi and sashimi specials available, as well as chicken or salmon teriyaki (sautéed in a light ginger sauce); lightly battered and deep-fried tempura shrimp or vegetables; and noodle dishes. The “Lunch Box” ($9.95 to $10.95) is a choice of chicken, vegetable, or salmon teriyaki; tempura; Thai coconut curry shrimp; or lemongrass shrimp served with miso soup, salad, and a California roll (crab stick, cucumber, avocado, and nori seaweed rolled inside of seasoned rice). Diners can choose any two of 13 sushi roll specials at lunchtime, for just $8.95.

The Asian cuisine can be experienced in a new way since April, as well, with the expansion of the restaurant to an upstairs hibachi room. There, hibachi Chef Larry heads the staff of three specially trained grill chefs who entertain as they expertly prepare meals for customers seated directly around the three gas-fired grills that dominate the upstairs room. Overhead, shining steel hoods whoosh away smoke, as flames erupt in front of diners, and steaks, seafood, vegetables, and chicken sizzle, each item swiftly moved about the super-heated grill surface in an impressive display of multi-tasking expertise.

Also upstairs is a private party room, accommodating up to 80 guests. Glass walls serve as a floor to ceiling wine rack for the California wines and Sake rice wines offered by Toro, and set off the private party room from the hibachi room. The color scheme follows that of the downstairs, with booths and tables upholstered in bright orange-red, and deep red curtains that soften the natural light.

Toro offers full-service catering on-site, or off-site for parties of up to 200. The catering menu is customized for each occasion.

“We have lived in the area for a long time,” said Ms Chou, “and I think Toro filled a missing niche here in Newtown. We’ve been so well received, and I am always touched when people tell us we are like family.”

Toro, 28 Church Hill Road in Newtown, is open Monday through Thursday, 11 am to 10 pm; Friday and Saturday, 11 am to 11 pm; and Sunday, 12:30 to 10 pm. A full takeout menu can be found at toronewtown.com. Toro delivers free to Newtown and Monroe residents for orders over $30. For takeout orders, catering information, or reservations, call 203-364-0099.