My mother used to hum or whistle along with the radio as Don Ho crooned, "Tiny bubbles, in the wine; make me happy; make me feel fine." We heard the song often, whether she was mopping the floor, vacuuming the rugs, or washing the dishes. I have to guess that it bubbled up pleasant memories for her, and if statistics from Wine Institute of America are accurate, sparkling wine bubbles up plenty of good memories for millions of people, every year, all over the world. 

Champagne and sparkling wines are synonymous with celebrations, and have been since the 1800s (with a dip post World War I and during Prohibition in the US in the 1920s). Its popularity has come a long way since a disappointed Benedictine monk, Dom Perignon, in charge of wine making at the Abby at Epernay, could not prevent his late harvested grapes from fermenting and trapping carbon dioxide - and lots of bubbles - in the wine. Try as he might, the wine kept effervescing. His efforts did lead to the discovery of making white wine from black grapes, and the development of a much stronger bottle with a corked stopper. (Rumor has it that early on, monks had to wear a mask to protect themselves from the bottles bursting in the cellars as spring approached.)

Apparently, the persistently sparkling wine gained in popularity through the next century, and by the mid-1700s, the Champagne house of Moet was established, followed by other familiar names: Mumm, Perrier, Bollinger, and Irroy. By the end of World War II, sparkling wines had become the wine of choice all over the world to fete many occasions.

Not all sparkling wines are Champagne. Only those produced in the Champagne-Ardenne region of northern France can be named "Champagne." The millions of other bottles of bubbly produced in other regions of France, the United States, and numerous other countries around the world are simply "sparkling wines."

Sparkling wines have the advantage over Champagne in that they tend to be less expensive, making them available to a broader population. And like all products, there is also a great range in quality. Wines fermented naturally in the bottle tend to be of higher quality than those boosted by a carbon dioxide injection. There is also a range of finishes, from the very dry "Brut" to the sweet tooth's favorite, "Doux."

Muzzling the cork to prevent a bottle from unexpectedly blowing its top was perfected in the mid-1800s. It looks like a lot of fun to remove the cage and encourage the cork to blast off, but please, don't. Not only do you lose a lot of the wine, but a ricocheting cork is nothing to joke about.

Instead, remove the cage, drape a clean cloth over the cork, and gently twist until you hear a quiet "pop." Then enjoy every last bit that is in the bottle.

There is also a bit of truth in the words of Don Ho, by the way: those tiny bubbles in a glass of Champagne really will make you feel fine, much more quickly than downing a glass of still wine. The carbon dioxide carries the intoxicating alcohol more quickly into the blood stream - so a little can go a long way. What does not go a long way are the calories. There are fewer than 90 calories in a 4 ounce glass of Champagne, which is quite a few less than white or red wine.

Which leads us to cooking with sparkling wine. After the toasting and tasting is over, it is possible to have leftover Champagne. Don't toss it out along with the used plastic flutes and paper napkins. Reincarnate it in a delicate cream sauce for shrimp or bass; in a fruity topping for waffles; or enhance the rise and add a mysteriously delicious flavor to pancake, muffin, or cupcake batter. And what will you drink with these treats - why, Champagne, of course.

Valentine's Day is coming upon us. What better time to feel happy and fine - with a serving of Champagne to pave the way.

Creamy Champagne Sauce

2 C dry sparkling wine or Champagne

½ C minced shallots

½ C finely chopped mushrooms

4 Tbs unsalted butter

¼ tsp dried thyme

1 Tbs fresh minced parsley

¼ C heavy cream

Salt and pepper

Bring shallots, mushrooms, and sparkling wine to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until there is just one-third cup of liquid. Remove from heat.

One tablespoon at a time, whisk in butter until incorporated fully. Whisk in cream and herbs. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with grilled shrimp, scallops, or swordfish.