Candy Canes:

A Holiday Tradition With A Twist

By Nancy K. Crevier

“We elves try to stick to the four main food groups: candy, candy canes, candy corns and syrup.”

—Will Ferrell as Buddy the Elf in the 2003 movie Elf

 What would the holidays be without candy canes? The hook-shaped peppermint sticks of red and white stripes, swaddled in clear plastic wrappers are the candy harbingers of the season. From tiny two-inch creations sold in long strips of perforated packaging to jumbo canes that bend the boughs, candy canes are one of the first seasonal confections in the aisles once that other candy fest, Halloween, is over.

The first candy canes were plain white sugar sticks handed out by a Cologne, Germany, choirmaster in 1670 to appease his young choristers during a long church ceremony. Since then, many Christian legends have come to pass concerning the candy cane.

The shape is said to resemble a shepherd’s crook, or if turned upside down, the letter J for Jesus. The hardness of the candy relates to the foundation of Christianity being a solid rock, says another legend. And why is peppermint flavor the classic taste? Hyssop, an herbal plant mentioned in the Old Testament, is minty in flavor. The red and white stripes are said to represent the blood and purity of Christ, says yet another legend.

By the turn of the 18th Century, the candy cane had crossed the ecumenical lines and the red and white striped cane had become a popular ornament for decorating the Victorian Christmas tree. And what kind of a visit with Santa would it be if his elves were not passing out candy canes?

Once made by hand through a laborious process of pulling, twisting and cutting, a gentleman by the name of Bob McCormack and his brother-in-law finally perfected in the 1950s an automated candy cane production machine, as well as packaging innovations that enabled safe shipping of the breakable candy. These packages, known as “cradles,” led to the mass production and distribution of the striped delight. By the 1980s, Bobs Candy Company in Albany, Ga., was using 100,000 pounds of sugar and corn syrup to produce 2 million candy canes a day, stored in climate controlled warehouses, evidence of America’s embracement of the seasonal sweet.

Candy canes have evolved, of course, over the 300 plus years of their existence, to include today’s modern colors and flavors that include navy-striped blueberry, rainbow-striped cherry, pale green chocolate mint, golden colored orange sherbet, and pink bubblegum varieties. Many popular candies have found their way into candy cane production, as well. Gobstopper, Sweetart, Jolly Rancher, Life Saver, Tootsie Pop and Jelly Belly flavors can be purchased in the holiday guise of the crooked stick of candy.

It would be hard to classify candy canes as a nutritional food, but an average candy cane does contain only 55 calories, no fat, and no cholesterol. As an occasional holiday treat, it is not apt to turn one into a Santa Claus look-alike.

Making holiday candies is a part of the tradition for many cooks. Candy canes fall into a different category for most home kitchens, though. Regardless of whether the classic peppermint-flavored, red and white candy is favored or the newest neon colored burst of flavor, the complicated production of candy canes is best left to the pros.

However, in keeping with the spirit, home bakers can bake their own candy cane cookies using this recipe from fabulousfoods.com. How sweet it is.

Candy Cane Cookies

2½ C flour

¼ tsp salt

1 C butter, room temperature

1 C confectioners’ sugar

1 large egg

½ tsp vanilla extract

½ tsp peppermint extract

¼ tsp liquid red food coloring

½ C crushed peppermint candy

(A food processor makes quick, albeit noisy, work of this.)

Preheat oven to 350. Mix flour and salt together, set aside.

In a large bowl, with an electric mixer, beat butter until creamy, gradually beat in confectioners’ sugar and continue beating until light and fluffy, about 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in the egg, vanilla and peppermint extracts, then lower mixer speed and gradually mix in the flour mixture, beating just until blended. Remove slightly more than half of the dough from the bowl and set aside. Add the red food coloring and crushed peppermint candy to the remaining dough and beat until evenly mixed and colored.

For each candy cane, scoop 1 tsp of the plain dough and 1 tsp of pink dough (tip: a small melon baler will give you about the right amount). Roll each dough portion between your hands to make a 4-inch rope. Twist the ropes around each other like a barber pole and shape into a cane shape. Arrange cookies on a parchment paper lined baking sheet, or a lightly greased baking sheet, about 1 inch apart.

If dough becomes too soft, refrigerate for a few minutes until it firms up again, and only take out small amounts at a time to speed production.

Bake for about 8 minutes until firm to the touch. Do not let cookies brown. Cool for a minute before using a wide spatula to transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool completely. Store in a tightly covered container, separating the layers with waxed paper.