Kolam

A New Experience Of Age-Old Traditions Of Indian Cuisine

“Kolam” is the age-old tradition in south India of drawing intricate patterns on the ground using finely ground rice flour. Kolam is also the name of a restaurant in Newtown, serving the cuisine of India for the past six years, and Kolam designs are part of the restaurant’s decor, with several framed fabric examples hanging on the wall.

Operating seven days a week at 316 South Main Street, Kolam serves “authentic regional cuisine, with selective dishes from various parts of India,” according to Senthil Rajamani, who co-owns the 65-seat restaurant with Jose Pullopilly. Those dishes include south Indian dishes unique to Kolam’s menu, said Mr Rajamani, such as chicken chettinad, a “deviled” chicken in a spicy peppercorn, tamarind, and ginger sauce; kodi vepudu, chicken chunks in a dry, spicy masala sauce; or avial, root vegetables, bananas, eggplant, and squash in a yogurt coconut sauce.

Diners who enjoy Indian food will find some new experiences here. “Spices used in the northern states are milder than those used in the south, and many of the dishes are creamier,” he continued. “Southern spices are very strong, flavorful, but not necessarily hot. There are also different ingredients and distinct ways of cooking. The flavors are more infused into the food, often very subtlely.”

Each sauce is made from a different combination of fresh-ground spices, a laborious process. Common seasonings in southern food include curry leaves, coconut, and mustard seeds, followed by red chilies, turmeric, and fenugreek seeds. Because of the hotter climate, southern dishes tend to be lighter and without much, if any, fat.

In all, there are more than 240 ingredients used in southern Indian cuisine, including eight to ten types of lentils and grains, basmati rice and saffron, as well as chicken, seafood, and lamb. Mr Rajamani also describes Indian cuisine as more of an art than a science, with many ancient preparation methods still in use. He describes some of the dishes served at Kolam as “grandma’s recipes,” having been learned from the families of the restaurant kitchen’s team of four.

The menu offers a wide variety of meat, poultry, seafood, and vegetarian selections. The full menu can be seen at KolamRestaurant.com.

The serving staff and Mr Rajamani’s wife, Bindu, who works the front of the restaurant, often guide diners both new to and more experienced with Indian cuisine.

For someone new to Indian cuisine, the Rajamanis would recommend tandoori chicken, which is similar in taste to barbecued chicken. Before being cooked in a traditional clay pot, the meat or seafood of most tandoori dishes is marinated for two to three hours in some form of spiced homemade yogurt. The result is a tender meat infused with subtle flavoring. Other recommendations are chameli chops — New Zealand lamb chops scented with nutmeg and ajwain, a Kashmiri delicacy — and panchrang kebab, a medley of chicken, lamb, shrimp, and vegetables.

Those who favor vegetarian dishes will find a wide array of entrees, plus kolam dal, lentils of the day. Malai kofta is vegetable and cheese dumplings served in a mild cashew and almond sauce.

Among the dozen appetizers are Kolam Moti Saag, a pearl of cheese wrapped with spinach on a honey-glazed fennel-flavored tomato chutney; Nellore Chili Chicken, tenders of chicken marinated with ginger, chilis, and curry leaves; or Gobi Lasuni, an appetizer from the Himalayan rim of mini cauliflower florets tossed with tomatoes, garlic, and green herbs.

Although there is no specific children’s menu at Kolam, there are several child-friendly items, the cheese naan (naan bread stuffed with cheese and herbs), poori (a puffed unleavened whole wheat bread), rice dishes, and any of the kebab dishes being especially popular.

The restaurant has recently undergone a menu change, so even longtime customers will find new and exciting dinner and dessert offerings at Kolam.

Food at Kolam is cooked to order and the ingredients or spice level can be adjusted to meet diners’ preferences.

While all menu selections are available for takeout, a choice of four quick lunch boxes to go — rice, vegetable, and entrée, either vegetarian, lamb, chicken, or tandoori — are available. They are pictured on the website.

For those who wish to try a selection of foods, Kolam offers a weekday buffet for $10.95 regularly, now at a promotional price of $8.95, and an expanded buffet on weekends for $13.95 regularly, but presently promoted at $11.95. The restaurant also offers catering services for parties and corporate functions.

Kolam, 316 Main Street South (Route 25), 203-426-7143, serves lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 to 2:30, dinner 5 to 10; Saturday and Sunday lunch is 12 to 3, Saturday dinner, 5 to 10, Sunday 4:30 to 9:30 pm. Website, KolamRestaurant.com.