New World Taste,

Old World Atmosphere

By Nancy K. Crevier

Something old, something new, something borrowed…. The new Tambascio’s Italian Grill at 1 Dodgingtown Road (Route 302) is all of that, but owner John Tambascio said that while he will draw from his nearly 20 years of experience as partner in My Place Restaurant on Queen Street, as owner of DiPalma’s New York Pizza in Southbury, and from the successes of George’s Restaurant, which formerly occupied the one-story building on Route 302, people should expect something very different at his new venture.

“This is not My Place II,” he said. “I feel there is a need in Newtown for something different — not just different from My Place, but different from any place around here,” Mr Tambascio explained. “I would like to draw the young professionals and people from the neighborhood while maintaining the traditional clientele.”

Since taking over the 75-seat restaurant on July 11, Mr Tambascio and his new head chef, R.J. Moody, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, have been gradually introducing new offerings to the old menu as they get to know their clientele and work toward opening up the cuisine to a menu that reflects the feel of trattorias across Italy.

Miah Bahar and Mohamed Latif remain on staff in the kitchen under the direction of Chef R.J., adding a sense of familiarity for longtime customers.

“We have kept the best of George’s menu, some of the classic Italian American style courses such as the marsala, piccata, parmigiana,” said Mr Tambascio, but the larger percentage of the new menu introduced the week of September 23 is built around tradition-based contemporary Italian appetizers, salads, and entrees.

“Our Bolognese sauce is very traditional, for example,” said Mr Tambascio, “and the baked eggplant Fiorentina is very much what you would get in Italy.” The sauces are lighter and cleaner than many Americanized Italian eateries offer, allowing the flavor of the high-quality meats, fish, or pastas used at Tambascio’s Italian Grill to shine through, he stressed.

Mr Tambascio is also excited to offer hand-cut steaks in two different sizes, and is particularly pleased with the positive response the Tuscan T-Bone has received from customers. Topped with rosemary butter, the grilled 16-ounce steak is served with fresh baby spinach and roasted garlic mashed potatoes.

“It is exactly how it would be served in Tuscany,” Mr Tambascio said.

Other new menu items that are rapidly gaining popularity are the polenta torte appetizer, a creation of Chef R.J.’s consisting of creamy polenta with roasted vegetables surrounded by sundried tomato pesto and goat cheese; the penne and shrimp Basilica with fresh basil, roasted red peppers, and roasted garlic; and the roasted apple and goat cheese salad, a variation of a My Place favorite.

Mr Tambascio is very aware that palates quickly tire of the same fare, though, and said that customers can expect several seasonal changes to the menu. “It will be interesting, not the same thing all of the time,” he said.

“Quality is very important to me,” said Mr Tambascio. “We use only the very best pastas and meats, and the bread basket served is made up of our own white and seven-grain breads that are baked on premises every day.” Eventually, space in the front window will be freed up, allowing Tambascio’s to install a pasta machine and make pasta on site, he said, and an expanded waiting area near the restaurant’s small bar will more readily accommodate those waiting for a table.

Pizza lovers will not be disappointed with the Italian pan pizza made at Tambascio’s Italian Grill. While different from the Greek pan pizza George’s regular customers may have been accustomed to ordering, and unlike the New York-style pizza served at My Place, the Old World pizza baked in a pan on top of a stone and featuring Italian cheeses will be enjoyed by those who love a pizza with an al dente crust, he said.

Burgers made from ground sirloin and hot or cold grinders are available for a lighter meal, but each is prepared with the same care and attention to detail bestowed upon the full entrées and Mr Tambascio plans to extend that attention to detail to the service, as well.

“There’s no reason service can’t be done right,” he said.

The staff has been trained not only for exemplary table service, but will be able to recommend wines from the newly configured wine list.

“The wine list is based upon what I think is current now and features excellent value in wines that go well with the food,” said Mr Tambascio. The restaurant will feature a weekend special wine by the glass, and wine connoisseurs will be pleasantly surprised, he believes, at some of the wines found on the list or carried as specials. From a $20 bottle of Calabria to an $80 bottle of Brunello, he said that the new wine list will offer something for all tastes. “So far, people are pleased with the new list and really like the house red wine, which is from Italy. I am trying to carry wines that may not be in the local liquor stores. Some of the wines people have never heard of, but they are loving them,” he said.

From the smoked trout appetizer to the roasted tomato and goat cheese ravioli to the homemade panacotta for dessert, Mr Tambascio envisions a haven for diners as they relax in a down to earth and elegant environment.

“I truly want people to be happy and enjoy their meal,” Mr Tambascio said. “Eating out is more than filling your belly; it’s a whole experience.”

Experience Tambascio’s Italian Grill, 1 Dodgingtown Road, Newtown, from 11 am to 10 pm, seven days of the week. The dining room opens at 4 pm. Menu items are available for takeout prior to that hour. For takeout or party planning, call 426-2715.