Fresh Foods Flavor A New Concept—

From Farm To Table At Maplewood

By Nancy K. Crevier

The courtyard at Maplewood at Newtown on Mt Pleasant Road was bustling with activity Wednesday evening, October 5, as Maplewood CEO Gregory Smith, Executive Director Marcie Albanesi, and staff welcomed civic leaders, area town officials, and members of the local health care arena to a special Farm to Table reception, in conjunction with local chef and caterer Michael Bick of Some Things Fishy in Bethel.

The purpose of the evening, said Mr Smith, was to introduce others who service the same population as does Maplewood to the values of utilizing local produce, meats, fish, and poultry, as well as items grown using sustainable methods. The reception also served to present Maplewood at Newtown (the former Homesteads), newly reorganized under Mr Smith’s direction for the last year and a half, in a different light, said Andrea Ellen, vice president of marketing and communication. Maplewood at Newtown is one of three assisted and memory care residences in Connecticut operated by Mr Smith.

“I started thinking a couple of years ago of implementing a farm-to-table type of food system into Maplewood,” said Mr Smith. By staying in the vein of sustainability, he believes it is possible to provide good, quality food product and a dietary program that is beneficial not only to the residents of Maplewood, but to the local community, as well, by supporting local farmers. “It’s an important concept for the community to know about,” said Mr Smith.

The introduction of foods raised primarily in the region or that are produced using product- and earth-friendly practices began at Maplewood about three months ago, said Mr Smith, following several months of research by himself and the Maplewood chef team. Input from the Connecticut Grown program was also invaluable, he said, in locating farms and growers able to supply the Maplewood kitchen. The grass-fed beef and dairy products are from Connecticut, and a fishery in Southington, as well as the purveyor City Fish in Hartford, provides fish. Greenhouses using sustainable methods can offer some variety in the off-produce season in New England, he said, so menu items will still lean toward higher quality during the slower growing months here.

The residents have been very receptive to the menu changes, Mr Smith said. “They notice the difference in taste. From the dietary perspective, it is great, too. We use grass-fed beef and foods grown with no pesticides, so there are health benefits there,” he said. What is remarkable to the residents, said Mr Smith, is that the food has returned “to the flavors they remember from long ago. It’s not only a ‘green’ philosophy that we are carrying through, but it helps the residents to reminisce through the dining experience.”

What industrial operations fear most, said Mr Smith, is that the cost of using sustainable foods will create costs that are not sustainable. He has not found that to be true. “If you’ll excuse the pun,” he said, “we’ve found it is pound for pound within reason, so far as cost goes.” Chef Michael Bick agreed.

“You can’t weigh the cost in the beginning,” he noted. The health benefits and positive response from people as they rediscover tastes ultimately outweigh any cost, said the chef, who began incorporating locally grown foods into his personal life and catering business more than five years ago, when he and his wife realized their children were consuming far too many processed foods.  “What I like is that I get to work with the finest, freshest foods. I try to teach people that once they taste natural food the way it should be, they won’t use processed foods. I love to see people’s faces when they bite into my food. The fresh flavors are incredible,” Chef Bick said.

Sampling The Fare

Guests on Wednesday evening echoed Chef Bick’s sentiments, with words like “amazing,” “awesome,” “flavorful,” and “unbelievable” floating on the autumn breeze, as they clustered about the artful arrangement of cheeses from small dairies in upstate New York at one table, or delicately lifted a bite-sized hors d’oeuvres from trays passed by black-clad servers.

Featured cheeses were from two of Chef Bick’s favorite purveyors, he said, Mettle Meadow Farm and Brovetto’s Dairy, both in upstate New York. A wheel of glazed baked Brie swiftly turned into a half moon, as one guest after another tasted it and urged it on companions. A thickly veined Bleu Cheese Berkshire had a smaller but loyal following for those who prefer a boldly flavored cheese. Creamy Hudson Valley Camembert found its way onto the fresh fruit accompaniments and into the mouths of fans of the smooth and richly flavored cheese.

Praise was high from guests for Chef Bick’s fresh King Chinook salmon tartar. Although the salmon was from the West Coast, it was selected for its seasonality and superiority to any farmed salmon available, said Chef Bick. 

Seared Stonington scallops served on miniature rice crisps, topped with a vibrant green watercress pesto, disappeared as eager fingers plucked the treats from the passing tray. Grass-fed beef from Stuart Farm in Bridgewater and Greyledge Farm in Roxbury contributed to seared filet of beef, short ribs, and shredded beef appetizers that had guests exclaiming over the flavor.

“Really exquisite and delicious,” expressed one guest, biting into a wonton crisp topped with shredded, tea-smoked organic chicken. A homemade sesame mayo complemented that appetizer, said Chef Bick.

A wild mushroom ragout nestled in a Parmesan cheese “cup” wooed the taste buds of others.

Among those raving about the passed hors d’oeuvres was local food enthusiast Alicia Ghio of Danbury, who attended the reception with her husband, Renato Ghio. The Ghios produce a web show called The Natural Princess, and post a blog titled Local Food Rocks.

“We thought we would use our day job skills in video production to share the idea of farm to table foods with people,” said Ms Ghio. “On our web show, we visit local farms and talk about what we’re cooking. We do easy recipes for people to try at home, from these fresh, fresh foods,” she said. The blog is a way for them to share their excitement of what they are discovering can be done with foods from the area. “We just want to give people ideas,” Ms Ghio said.

The Ghios were very enthusiastic about the efforts of Maplewood at Newtown to support sustainable agriculture and use locally grown foods. “Fresh, local food just tastes better,” Ms Ghio said, as she snagged another hors d’oeuvre being passed around the crowd.

Chef Bick provided several options for quenching thirst at the Farm to Table reception. A basil infused sugar syrup sweetened a jug of homemade lemonade, and was just tart enough to tingle the tongue and remind the drinker that the main ingredient is lemons.

A pot of steaming apple cider, from Bethel’s Blue Jay Orchards, scented the air nearby with a smell associated with fall.

Wines from organic and local vineyards, including DiGrazia Vineyard in Brookfield, and a selection of natural and organically produced beers were the choices for many reception guests.

Newtown representatives at the soiree included First Selectman Pat Llodra, members of the Visiting Nurse Association of Newtown, Monsignor Robert Weiss, and Dr Robert Grossman. Newtown Selectman Will Rodgers hoisted a glass of Sam Adams Oktoberfest Beer, brewed in Boston, in celebration of local producers.

And the Wednesday evening event was a celebration, Executive Director Marcie Albanesi reminded those present during brief remarks.

“We are here to celebrate new beginnings and change,” announced Ms Albanesi. “These are so many philosophies that are near and dear to my heart,” she added, referring to the concept of highlighting local foods. “Greg [Smith] felt that this was an important niche for senior citizens, to have good food. I believe,” she told the crowd, “that our dining experiences [at Maplewood] offer the best food around.”

Mrs Llodra listened attentively as Ms Albanesi spoke, and later commented, “I applaud the Farm to Table initiative untaken by Maplewood. Clearly, the leaders of the organization are forward thinking and are morphing their program and services to align with new knowledge and understandings about best practice in the care and support for their client base. The Farm to Table concept effectively links farming-food-health and local economies. The residents of Maplewood will experience a health benefit in being offered fresh and locally produced foods, expertly prepared.”

The Dining Experience

“It’s a big thing,” said Mary Underwood, director of memory care at Maplewood at Newtown. “The whole dining experience is especially important to residents with memory issues. Fresh, good food is what this generation was used to, growing up, so it triggers memories of gardening and food,” she said.

The rich colors of foods purchased locally and the bold tastes that the resident are exposed to now add to what Ms Underwood said is “a meal experience, not just ‘Here’s some food.’ This is so vital to them,” she said. “How we make our residents know we care gives them a sense of purpose and importance,” Ms Underwood said.

“It’s a great concept,” agreed Cynthia Roy-Squitier, president of Western Connecticut Regional Hospice, who was one of many health field executives at the reception. “If people don’t have healthy food, they don’t feel healthy,” she added.

Providing Maplewood at Newtown residents with delicious foods from the area, and supporting local producers is just a first step, though, said Gregory Smith.

He envisions a time in the not too distant future when Maplewood will own its own Connecticut farm, and grow its own seasonal produce. Not only would Maplewood then be able to supplement the items purchased and expand the variety, the farm would provide an outlet for residents who love the outdoors and gardening.

“I would love to see residents helping with planting, and working in the greenhouses, and being proud of what appears on the dining room tables. It could give a sense of purpose to residents, and stretches what we do as an industry,” said Mr Smith.

The Maplewood farm would allow for residents to expand upon a fall activity they are undertaking this year. “They will be taking part in canning and pickling of fresh produce,” he said. “It is an activity many can relate to and miss, and it will keep more locally made and grown foods on our table throughout the winter months,” he said.

Mr Smith addressed the gathering as the evening drew to a close, and noted that what touches the lives of residents in assisted living situations every day is the dining experience. “As a company, we focus on doing the right thing,” he said “It’s an evolution, but we are focused on the dining and care, and on our residents.”