It’s Time For Birdfeeders, Bulbs,

And Transplanting Your Garden

By Kendra Bobowick

The first trickle of warbling notes turns into a chorus as the Tufted Titmouse, Cardinal and Blue Jay sound the alarm of fall. Gardeners respond.

“October first — that’s the time when we put back the bird feeders,” said Town and Country Garden Club of Newtown President Margareta Kotch. She does not feel the feeders should be out during warmer months when food supplies are as abundant as the succulent worms in the soil.

“In the late spring and summer [the birds] can fend for themselves,” she said. By the first of October, however, Ms Kotch replenishes her stock of seed, thistle and cracked corn for the birdfeeders.

“By then if I had not put out feeders, the chickadees would say ‘Hey!’” she said.

Filling the feeders is part of her fall gardening routine, she explained. Another of her gardening habits also has more to do with birds than deadheading old blooms and cutting back her hostas, which are “starting to look a bit ugly” by early fall. She also cleans out the abandoned nests from her birdhouses.

“Gardening is part of nature, and so are the birds,” she said.

Also favoring her friends of flight this autumn is Horticulture Club of Newtown President Mavis Davis. She said, “The bird feeder stations and suet goes in when it gets cold.” She mentioned a variety of foods including the thistle seed that the finches prefer.

Cleaning the birdhouses and filling feeders aside, Ms Kotch offered general advice about what to clean up, what to plant, what plants to divide, and what might need some extra insulation by the time winter chases the season’s first frost.

Likewise, Garden Club of Newtown President Beth Caldwell-Cluff said, “This is when the garden starts to shut down.”

Before the frozen mists cling to the lawn in the morning and forecasts of snow threaten, Ms Kotch noted that autumn is both eye-catching and busy — especially for the gardener.

“It is so beautiful,” she said. But time soon arrives to begin cutting back the garden’s growth, both she and Ms Davis agreed. Naming chores, Ms Kotch said gardeners could begin to cut annuals or even take them out. A popular annual that tends to grow leggy in the shade and wilts with cooler temperatures is the Impatient, for example. Frost soon follows autumn’s early sunsets.

Some plants may still hold appeal, however.

“So wait,” she said, and advised that if either annuals or perennials still have a nice shape, leave them alone. “If they are still looking good they add nice color…if they are looking dreary cut them.”

In bloom in recent weeks are perennials including  Montauk Daisies and Sedum, for example. Unforgettable are the multi-colored mums also now in bloom to accompany the pumpkins in front-yard displays. Despite the pending frost, Ms Kotch advises keeping healthy plants as long as possible.

Autumn weather is also an ideal time for planting early spring’s bouquet. Get your bulbs in the ground now, the women advise.

“This is the best time,” said Ms Davis. Ms Kotch adds to the list of things gardeners should be thinking about during this season saying tubers — peonies for example (irises are similar) — can be divided now, transplanted, and the foliage cut back. Bulbs such as daffodils, narcissus and tulips can go in.

Bulbs do not require spring warmth for planting. Ms Caldwell-Cluff said, “They need the winter cold to flower in the spring.”

Ms Kotch and Ms Mavis offer watering and transplanting tips for the days before an icy sheen covers the morning landscape.

Because certain shrubs and plants can still be planted in early October with just enough time left to settle in before the ground freezes, Ms Kotch said, “Be sure that when you plant or divide and transplant, that you firmly pack the soil around it so frost and rain doesn’t kill the roots.” Firmly packing the soil around the plant roots is “very, very important; I’ve learned it myself.”

 Keen on watering plants that are settled into the ground recently, or are facing their first winter, Ms Davis said, “Water new specimens, thoroughly water them…all plants need a good watering before a freeze.”

Discussing her technique for planting, Ms Kotch noted that she digs a spot, waters the holes and then places the plant inside, then peat moss and packs soil on top. She also stresses that locations must be considered. Certain species are not as durable as others and will be harmed by a northern exposure, or area prone to winds in the winter.

Dividing plants is another technique that Ms Caldwell-Cluff enjoys.

Speaking about perennials, she said, “I dig them out, cut them in half…and can increase the number of plants.” Hostas are prime for division during this season.

Certain plants will need additional protection beyond cutting back or packing firmly. As the two women note, fall clean ups and raking leaves are in season, and Ms Davis offers the idea of using leaves to partly shield the gardens from freezing weather.

“I use the leaves and blow them onto the garden and leave them like that,” she said. Ms Caldwell-Cluff also mulches with leaves.

“This begins to break down and offers a natural fertilizer,” she explained.

Ms Kotch burlaps some of her taller or more vulnerable plants, using the material as a shield against harsh weather, she explained.

Moving through her autumn checklist, Ms Davis notes her use of leaves as mulch, recalls that all plants can use a good watering before a freeze, and advises bringing in the patio or deck plants while filling feeders. Ms Kotch said fertilizing is also possible.

Chores are not the only tasks awaiting gardeners. Ms Caldwell-Cluff offered decorative ideas for the winter season saying, “This is a great time to start identifying which plants to harvest for berries.”

 Bittersweet, for example, “Is beautiful inside [the house]. Rose hips are decorative.”

She also warns to clean out the fountains that may be damaged by leaving remaining water to ice over for the winter.

 

What About Pruning?

Master Gardener Maureen McLachlan looks at her rhododendrons, azaleas, and Mountain Laurel shrubs and notes the buds that currently adorn several plants.

“Leave those,” she warns. Next year’s blooms depend on those buds. Prune off or clean out the older, leftover blooms that have died, however.

Pruning should occur following a plant’s bloom, she explained, and certain species — spirea, for example — will see re-growth.

“You can prune again now,” said Ms McLachlan. In general, she explained, “Spring bloomers should have been pruned early — lilacs should have been pruned.”

Other woody perennials such as Blue Mist, which are late blooming plants, ideally like a spring pruning, she explained.

With the exception of butterflies, “leave the buddleias alone,” she said. These butterfly bushes can go without a pruning in the fall, but she recommends cutting them back in the spring. Those with pruning shears in hand should turn to the Rose of Sharon shrubs and cut those back this fall, said Ms McLachlan.

“They do beautifully,” she said.

Hydrangeas also benefit from pruning, but should be cut back just after blooming.

Some can benefit from mid-winter “hair cuts,” according to gardening.about.com. Different varieties have different needs, however. Avoid pruning any new buds, which are also vulnerable to winter’s chill. Some plants may benefit from trying branches together and wrapping them with burlap.

Certain perennials like sedum or coneflowers can be clipped, but may serve a better purpose if left untouched during the winter.

“I have some perennials that the birds love all winter,” she said. In fact, certain areas along her driveway were “planted” by birds, she explained. Naming a favorite wintertime shrub, Ms McLachlan said the variegated redtwig dogwood (a shrub) is beautiful; leave it standing, she advised. Grasses are also wonderful in the winter, she noted, and “pretty to keep.”

On the contrary, “Some people like to get rid of the mess,” she said. She prefers to attract the birds, however. Roses [depending on the variety] can be cut now or in the spring, she said.