Nourishments—

Concord Grapes: Health Benefits Sans The Alcohol

By Nancy K. Crevier

Over a trellis edging a portion of my Great-Uncle Ferd’s garden grew a thick swag of Concord grapes. From hard, pebble-sized balls of green that appeared in summer, by autumn they had grown into bulbous bunches of grapes so dark in color that they were more black than purple. The robins liked to nest in the web of vines, hidden behind the large leaves, and I recall more than once peering out of the kitchen window, where Aunt Helen and I sat sipping “coffee” (more sugar and milk than caffeine in my cup) and playing word games, to see my uncle doing a peculiar dance as he dipped and dodged the darting birds who did not care for his futzing around near their nest.

But by the time summer had skittered away, the grapes were ripe and the little birdies had long flown away. Aunt Helen, Uncle Ferd, my sisters and I would harvest the crop. The bitter skin that obscured the sweet juices beneath discouraged us kids from sampling too many of the deep purple grapes, but we knew that beneath Aunt Helen’s culinary prowess, the astringent flavor would soon be transformed into sweet, clear jellies and the tastiest grape juice ever poured into a glass.

Concord grapes are one of many varieties of purple grapes, and are derived from seeds of a native species of purple grape, according to The Concord Grape Association. Developed by Ephraim Wales Bull outside of Concord, Massachusetts in the mid 1800s, the hardy grape was able to withstand the harsh northern frosts and produce a full-bodied flavor. Exhibited at the Boston Horticultural Society exhibition in 1853, the Concord grape was awarded first place and grape growers worldwide were soon clamoring for cuttings from Mr Bull’s grape vines.

It was Thomas Welch, a New Jersey dentist, who in 1869 perfected the processing of fresh grape juice into an unfermented beverage that could be sold in bottles. Most of the early grape juice production was sold to churches for Communion, but today juices and jellies made from the Concord grape are practically a fixture in every home.

Harvesters in Washington, New York, Michigan, Pennsylvania, Ohio and Missouri provide over 336,000 tons of the slip-skin Concord grapes to processors around the country, notes The Concord Grape Association. While most grapes harvested go for juice and jelly production, a small amount is occasionally sold as a table grape. The seedy interior flesh and juice sucked from the skin make for a messy treat, which probably accounts for the native grape’s unpopularity as a snack.

As with so many foods, it turns out that the juice of the Concord grape is rich in components that add to a healthy lifestyle. Recent research funded by the National Institutes of Health and Welch Foods, Inc showed that drinking Concord grape juice slows oxidation of LDL cholesterol, the “bad” cholesterol, in the body. When LDL oxidizes within the arterial wall, cardiovascular health can be impaired. The study, published in the December issue of the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, showed a marked improvement in resistance of LDL cholesterol to oxidation in subjects taking part in the study.

Another study funded by Welch Foods, Inc at the Universite Louis Pasteur de Strasbourg, France, showed that Concord grape juice produced a prolonged arterial relaxation effect not yet associated with red wine consumption. Researchers concluded that it is the grapes, not the alcohol, that provide this beneficial effect.

 Ultimately, it is the delicious flavor of the Concord grape, though, that keeps us coming back for more.

 An early autumn walk in the woods finds the air pungent with the scent of ripening grapes, the wild cousins to the Concord grape, or perhaps the remnants of a long-ago farmer’s vineyard. If you can mark the spot and hurry back before the woodland creatures have gorged on them, a basketful of the purple grapes will make a few jars of the loveliest homemade jelly. And every time you crack open a jar in the middle of winter and spread the thick, shivery jelly across a slice of toast, the sweet smell of autumn will return once again.

For those with less culinary ambition than that required for jelly making, try this quick icy treat from The Concord Grape Association:

Citrus Grape Sherbet

(Makes 8 Servings)

½ gallon lemon sherbet

6 cups Concord grape juice

2 cups Concord grape jam or jelly

¼ cup grated lemon peel

Let sherbet soften slightly in refrigerator. Spoon into blender or food processor container with Concord grape juice, Concord grape jam, and lemon peel. Blend on low speed until thoroughly mixed. Do not let sherbet melt completely. Pour into large freezer container. Freeze until firm.