Dear Ticked: Your dog is getting covered with “grapes” because now is one of the worst times in the Northeast for ticks, especially the baby nymphs that you can barely see. The real threat to dogs (and people) comes from the bacteria transmitted from a biting tick.

Right now, local veterinarians are finding dogs infected with Lyme Borreliosis, Ehrlichiosis and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. Ehrlichiosis, unlike Lyme disease which is caused by bacteria, is caused by a “rickettsia” or microorganism living in the blood, which is transferred to the dog from the bite of a brown dog tick. Lyme disease is transferred through the smaller deer tick. Ehrlichia has been reported in 34 states and is spreading.

Regardless of the tick or what disease it’s carrying, the longer the tick is attached and biting, the greater the risk of transmitting the bacteria which causes disease. Fortunately, not all ticks carry bacteria so not every bite results in disease. But be on the lookout for early symptoms such as front leg limping, swelling of the lymph nodes, especially near the lameness and a temperature of 103 or above. If left untreated, dogs can suffer kidney and bone marrow failure, chronic bouts of symptoms brought on by stress and even death.

Prevention

The most recommended course of action is, of course, preventing the ticks from biting in the first place. Taking a three-tiered approach to prevention is your best bet.

First, have your vet give your dog a Lyme vaccination. While only 85 percent effective against the Borrelia bacteria, it’s a good start. Second, apply a topical spot on treatment such as Frontline®. This product contains the drug Fipronil, which hits the tick wear it hurts, in the central nervous system, by causing paralysis and death. While spot on treatments kill ticks after they bite, it’s not as effective against repelling them from the dog in the first place.  So, finally, add a repellent to your arsenal for the war on ticks with a product such as Preventic® Tick Collars. Collars and some sprays act as a better repelling agent and can be used in conjunction with the spot on treatment. Be sure to ask your vet for recommendations.

But if you don’t like “better living through chemistry” approach for your dog, try using environmental controls. Keep the lawn mowed short (ticks hang out on grass blades waiting to jump a ride on a dog), buy a gaggle of Guinea Hens (they love to eat ticks) and do a visual check of the dog each time he comes in after a walk to find ticks before they attach. To check the tick population in your backyard, try dragging a white cloth through the grass as you walk. Ticks waiting for that ride will grab hold of the cloth and be easy to see against the white background. 

If you do find a “small grape” on your canine companion opt for immediate removal. If you can stomach using your fingernails (if not, use tweezers) simply grab the tick body as close to the dog’s skin as possible and gently pull straight out. Using Vaseline®, alcohol or burning the tick is pointless. If you should leave the tick head in the skin along with those nasty barbed-teeth, fear not. The dog’s immune system will fight back and form a small bump of granulation tissue around the tick mouth parts to protect it from infecting the rest of the dog.

Treatment

The best treatment is antibiotics from the tetracycline family for at least two weeks for an acute onset and for up to two months or more for a chronic infection. One of the best drugs vets have been using is Doxycycline. This drug works better in some cases because it penetrates the cells better than tetracycline. However, studies suggest that it doesn’t work in up to 40 percent of cases and other drugs must be tried. Work with your vet to determine what’s best for your dog.

Lisa Peterson, a long-time breeder of Norwegian Elkhounds, is the Director of Club Communications at the American Kennel Club. Contact her at ask@lisa-peterson.com  or Dogma Publishing, P.O. Box 307, Newtown, CT 06470.