Separating Fact From

Beaujolais Fiction

As hard as it is for many people to believe, Archie Bunker, Kramer and Norm Peterson are not real people. However, as the actors who created these memorable characters, Carroll O’Connor, Michael Richards, and George Wendt have never truly escaped the persona they created playing these characters.

Alas, Beaujolais is the wine that is never able to escape its “Nouveau” character. Beaujolais Nouveau is a light, fruity wine released in November that is enormously popular. Those willing to look beyond Nouveau will be delighted to find what else Beaujolais has to offer.

Beaujolais is a region in east central France that produces mostly red wines from the Gamay grape. Although some white wines are produced in Beaujolais, today we will be speaking only about the red wines from Beaujolais.

The most commonly found wines in the US are usually labeled Beaujolais-Villages. This classification refers to wines that come from the better, steeper vineyards in the northern part of Beaujolais. The flower label of Georges DuBoeuf has become a mainstay of wine shops around the world. The ubiquity of DuBoeuf Beaujolais-Villages has labeled him as “the King of Beaujolais.”

The growing season of 2003 was unbelievably hot for the Beaujolais region. Although winemakers had to be careful in dealing with the heat, some absolutely incredible wines were produced in 2003. The record-breaking heatwave produced red wines of stunning complexity and intense fruit.

The best Beaujolais wines are named after the communes, or “crus,” where the grapes were picked. The ten crus of Beaujolais are St Amour, Julienas, Chenas, Moulin-A-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnie, Brouilly and Cotes de Brouilly. Look for these names on the label along with the 2003 vintage for delicious wines at fair prices.

Cru Beaujolais is an unsung wine. At its best, the wines offer flavor and complexity that match many of their more expensive counterparts. It is definitely a good time to think about Cru Beaujolais rather than Nouveau Beaujolais.

*Recently Tasted & Recommended: 2003 Louis Latour Morgon Les Charmes.

Louis Latour is the producer, Morgon is the region, and Les Charmes is the vineyard. This wine is medium bodied, flavorful and perfect for sipping on the deck!

(Newtown resident and wine enthusiast Steve Small is the general manager at Yankee Wine & Spirits on Queen Street.)