A Culinary Adventure To Northern Italy

At The Corner Of North Street

By John Voket

The second generation of restaurateurs who recently renovated the unimposing brick structure at the corner of North Street and Padanaram Road in Danbury were raised to do it right. From the sun-drenched coast of Montenegro to the bustling streets of Manhattan’s East Side and northward to Westchester County, the Balidemaj brothers — Chef Danny, along with hosts Kenny and Lenny — spent the time required to perfect an appealing combination of austere ambiance, complemented with a fireworks display of culinary sights and tastes and meticulous tableside demeanor.

A visit to their latest location, Castello Ristorante at 2 Padanaram Road (Route 37), is a refreshing alternative to the overcrowded roster of sports bars and “American” eateries that brashly substitute style over substance. After just one visit to Castello, one may refuse to enter one of those hyped-up chains ever again.

Covered parking for most patrons is available and welcoming in any season, but once you get into the building, a sense of being transported to the shores of Tuscany becomes almost overwhelming as patrons are enveloped by one of three serving rooms decorated in sparse but authentic art works and earth tones.

Don’t be offended by the initial attention you’ll get from co-owners Kenny and Lenny Balidemaj, or one of their handpicked servers. They will hover near throughout the visit, offering appropriate suggestions, pouring another glass of their fine family wine, dispensing cracked pepper or whisking individual courses and clean cutlery to and from your station.

The brothers’ love of accenting many dishes with seafood, or serving up ocean fare as the main course, comes from the many days spent working for their parents, who operated an inn and restaurant high above the Adriatic. Upon arriving in America, the family went to work in short order,  with the oldest of five brothers establishing a presence on 57th Street in New York.

From there, the family ventured first to Port Chester and then expanded to another location, the original Castello, in Mamaroneck.

After 15 years in Westchester, in the summer of 2007, the youngest three Balidemaj brothers decided to break into Northern Fairfield County and found the perfect palette on which to create their dream location. After gutting and redesigning the space, retaining its simple design and high ceiling elegance, Castello of Danbury opened its doors in late October to rave reviews.

Today, a busy evening will bring upward of 250 patrons all clamoring for the wondrous variety of dishes and appetizers populating the Castello menu. The location is also equipped for hosting up to three separate private parties, and in fact, the entire location can be booked for larger affairs if desired.

A recent visit provided a compelling cross section of samples from the Castello menu. As always, host Lenny recommended a selection of fresh seafood, including uniquely prepared and spiced Branzini — a Mediterranean Sea bass, or the generous serving of swordfish. For meat lovers, the fresh-pounded veal dishes are among the specialties of the house.

Starting off, Chef Danny prepared the Gamberoni di Castello, his own creation of grilled jumbo shrimp over a foundation of white and tender Tuscan beans, hot cherry peppers which finished with a warm buzz, and crispy arugula. The Insalata Caprese featured creamy blocks of fresh mozzarella and a huge and tasty roasted Holland pepper drizzled with balsamic olive oil.

The house salad with zest beets was a perfectly proportioned transition before a bowl of Castello’s amazing Stracciatella Romana, an egg drop and spinach soup — a must try for any patron.

For the main course, our hosts presented the Scaloppini Castello: melt in your mouth top round veal medallions accented with chopped jumbo shrimp and asparagus in a light, zesty red sauce, along with the Branzini, which was skinned and deboned at the table and prepared expertly with lemon and butter.

A serving of their homemade ricotta ravioli came next, which was perfect with the warm baked bread and snappy breadsticks and olives, which accompany every visit.

Other popular choices include a Pappardelli al Fungi, homemade pasta with spinach, Portobello, walnuts and mascarpone sauce, or the special lamb shank with risotto, natural gravy, mushrooms, and sautéed vegetables.

Castello proudly pours a modestly priced family vintage from the Castello Banfi winery, and the tiramisu, homemade cannoli, chocolate moose drenched in Godiva chocolate, or the one-of-a-kind coconut torte with macadamia nuts and fresh whipped cream provide perfect punctuation to the experience.

For those on the go, or looking to get a quick Tuscan fix for lunch, call ahead to order your eat in or takeout. And while Castello is half a world away from your run of the mill pizzeria, they can accommodate those looking for that quick and easy alternative as well. Castello Ristorante is open seven days a week.

Call 743-3828 for a reservation or catering inquiry, and visit castello-web.com for more information.