Nourishments—

Calling All Cauliflower Lovers

By Nancy K. Crevier

It is not the most beautiful vegetable in the produce section. It does not have the willowy bend of asparagus, the rich green color of broccoli, or the brilliant orange of carrots or sweet potatoes. The lipstick red bulbs of radish burrowed together in bundle beneath deep green leaves have it beat, as do the feathery stalks of fennel and the glistening yellow rows of corn on the cob.

But the knobby white head of cauliflower encased in pale green leaves does have redeeming features that are not visible to the naked eye. One cup of cooked cauliflower contains only 28 calories, but over 90 percent of the daily value of Vitamin C, and impressive quantities of vitamin K, folate, and vitamin B6. In addition, cauliflower is a wonderful source of dietary fiber.

Blame the leaves of the cauliflower plant for the lack of chlorophyll in the head of the plant. They shield the tightly packed flower buds from the sunlight as the plant grows, leaving the head, or “curd,” a ghostly white.

Cauliflower is a member of the cruciferous family that includes broccoli and cabbage, which are believed to contain compounds that help the body detoxify enzymes that may lead to cancer. The compounds, glucosinolate and thiocyanates, are believed to increase the ability of the liver to combat harmful substances. In a report released by the National Institutes of Health (NIH) in 2000, isothiocyanates (ITCs) in cruciferous vegetables were shown to offer protection from lung cancer. Precursors of ITCs are released when the vegetables are chewed.

That’s a lot of big words and long thoughts to just to say that cauliflower and its cousins are probably a very good addition to the diet, especially in the winter when our defenses are down.

While the cruciferous vegetables are often accused of being “stinky,” due to the sulphuric compounds that  they contain, the strong smell can be somewhat mellowed by a shorter cooking time. A shorter cooking time also prevents the loss of many nutrients.

Trim away the leaves and stem of a head of cauliflower prior to cooking. The head should be completely white, with no brown or soft spots, and the buds tightly packed together. Cut off the buds at the stem into bite-sized pieces, or leave them in larger chunks. Cauliflower can be lightly steamed and tossed with butter and salt, or vinaigrette, before serving as an easy side dish. When simmered with celery and onions in vegetable or chicken broth, and a handful of parsley and a dash of nutmeg, cauliflower can be easily whipped into a delicious soup. Whisk in a bit of heavy cream and add salt and pepper to taste. Serve it hot in the winter, or chill it for a delicious cold soup on a sultry summer’s day.

Thinly sliced pieces of cauliflower make a nice addition to a vegetable stir-fry, the bright white a pleasant contrast to orange carrots strips and the bright green of broccoli or spinach.

For easy munching and healthy benefits on the fly, grab a few raw cauliflower florets for dunking into a creamy dip.

The winter months are prime time for cauliflower, so don’t pass up the shy, pale vegetable when cruising the produce department. Why not try it in this recipe from a 1998 issue of Gourmet Magazine that combines potatoes and cauliflower into a truly tasty mash?

 

Cumin Cauliflower Mashed Potatoes

3 pounds boiling potatoes

1 large head cauliflower (about 2½ pounds)

1 Tbsp cumin seeds

1 C well-shaken nonfat buttermilk

1 Tbsp ground cumin

2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil

Peel and quarter potatoes. Cut cauliflower into 1½-inch florets. In a 5- to 6-quart kettle cover potatoes with salted cold water by two inches and simmer 20 minutes. Add cauliflower and simmer until vegetables are very tender, about 10 minutes. Drain vegetables in a colander and transfer to a large bowl. With a potato masher mash, potato mixture.

In a dry heavy skillet toast cumin seeds over moderate heat, stirring, until fragrant.

In a bowl whisk together buttermilk and ground cumin. Stir mixture into potatoes with cumin seeds until combined well and season with salt and pepper. Potatoes may be made 1 day ahead and chilled, covered. Reheat potatoes, covered, in a 350°F. oven about 30 minutes.

Serve potatoes drizzled with oil and garnished with chopped fresh cilantro.