Stewing About February
Ah, February: the longest short month of the year, or so it seems. Winter drags on, with the occasional tease of springtime, and appetites grow weary of the same old, same old.
There is enough chill day and night to make the idea of stew enticing, weeknights or weekends. So what separates a stew from a soup? It’s the juiciness of the final product. A soup has plenty of liquid, while a stew has a denser, richer quality: the smaller amount of liquid used initially resulting in the thick, satisfying mixture that fills the bowl and tummy.
When I think of stew, my first thoughts go to the weekly beef stew my mother made. It was a simple mixture of fat cubes of browned beef combined with carrots, onions, and potatoes — maybe a stalk of celery tossed in. She simmered it slowly in plain old water that barely covered the ingredients, over low heat on the stove top. Because she worked full time, this stew generally was given a head start when she was home for her lunch break. Finished off with a milk and flour roux to create a gravy come dinner time, and a dash of salt and pepper, many a cold winter evening was warmed by this very basic meal.
(Of course, there was the one day when the pot was not turned off after lunch, and we entered an eerily smoke filled house after school, as the stew simmered away the afternoon, lower and lower and lower … Note to self: always set a timer when cooking!)
Not being a big meat eater these days does not mean I don’t relish a good stew when cold weather sets in. Tofu and tempeh, both soy products, love to wallow in a flavorful sauce that permeates each chunk. Served over rice, quinoa, or with potatoes included in the stewing combo, a veggie stew does not disappoint. A gravy made with a red miso base and caramelized mushrooms just adds to the umami of the meal.
Sweet potatoes, combined with nut butters and spices then slowly cooked, create a more exotic flavor sensation and make use of a winter vegetable that is hearty and healthy. What if you placed the chunks of sweet potato in coconut cream to simmer and added a pinch of cayenne pepper, smoked paprika, or ground cumin? Just a thought …
I have added stock to cooked kidney and pinto beans, added onions and carrots sautéed in a bit of canola oil, then let it “stew” til the carrots are tender. Whisk in a little tahini (a sesame paste), a dash of tamari soy sauce, and it will thicken up this vegan stew. Fresh dill and a squeeze of lemon added at the end of cooking enlivens the dish. Serve with brown rice or whole grain pasta.
For any comforting stew, consider using a minimum of liquid, and simmering slowly. Simple ingredients, simple seasonings, and a crusty bread equal rich results that will ease you through the final days of winter.
Sweet Potato Peanut Stew
This is a recipe based on one for groundnut stew in The Africa News Cookbook I’ve had for years, and ideas from various similar recipes online. You’ll make it your own way before you know it!
2 teaspoons canola oil
2 teaspoons unsalted butter (or additional oil for a vegan dish)
1 small to medium onion, large dice
3 medium sweet potatoes, cut into chunky ½-inch cubes
1½ tablespoons grated fresh ginger
1 small clove garlic, crushed
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
3 cups vegetable broth or water; or 2 cups broth, 1 cup coconut milk
¼ to ½ teaspoon sea salt
Pinch cayenne pepper (optional, but nice if you like a bit more spiciness!)
*½ cup chunky natural peanut butter — well stirred!
Juice of one lime
**1 small box frozen chopped spinach, thawed and excess water pressed out
½ bunch cilantro, roughly chopped
Heat oil and butter over medium heat, and when it starts to bubble, add onion and sweet potato chunks. As onion starts to become translucent, stir in ginger and garlic. Reduce heat to medium-low. Stir in tomato paste, cumin, pepper flakes, broth, and sea salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, covered for 15 minutes, uncovered for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently.
When sweet potatoes are tender, stir in the peanut butter and lime juice. Add cayenne, if using. Just before serving, stir in the spinach and adjust seasonings to taste.
This can be served over brown rice, white rice, or with breads like naan or injera, a spongy Ethiopian flatbread available in specialty markets. Serve with cilantro sprinkled on top.
*or use chunky almond butter for a switch
** or one bunch Swiss Chard, coarsely chopped